Running Ultra Trail Snowdonia 50 by UTMB 2023
For me, trail running is one of life’s greatest adventures. Running Ultra Trail Snowdonia 50km (UTS 50) by UTMB was certainly a massive adventure.
Being my first proper mountain ultramarathon, UTS 50 is a trail running beast. With over 10,000 feet of elevation, in the middle of May, this course featured two ascents and descents of Mount Snowdon itself, with two smaller ascents in part two of the race including Bwlch Glas.
With temperatures in the low to mid 20s (degrees Celsius) for most of the day, and clear skies for as far as the eye could see, it was set to be one of my greatest challenges yet.
Gear I used during Ultra Trail Snowdonia 50
Helyvellyn Carbon Z-Poles (Harrier) - My first time using poles in a race, and they held up brilliantly
Fenix HM65R-T Headlamp (part of minimum kit but not used)
Hoka Speed Goat 3s, wide fit. Linked to Speed Goat 5s, as I'm not sure they offer new Speed Goat 3s anymore
Go Pro HERO 9 Camera for filming my YouTube video
Leading up to race day and logistics for Ultra Trail Snowdonia 50
I had a mixed lead up to race day. In the months before the starting whistle, I was the fittest I’d ever been and had put some months of quality training in. Averaging at about 65 miles a week, I was in good physical shape. I ran my fastest marathon in April and managed to get a sub 3 hour finish time at the Southampton Marathon.
The week before the race, I had a catastrophic race experience. I took on Centurion’s Thames Path 100, which is a 100 mile ultramarathon starting in Richmond and ending in Oxford all along the Thames Path national trail. I didn’t fuel properly, and I set off far too quick, and I ended up pulling out at mile 84.
Whilst I recovered pretty well from the 100 mile DNF, my left knee was pretty banged up and I knew I’d be dealing with some pain during UTS 50. Despite this, I decided I’d throw my hat in the ring and give it a shot.
I drove up to Snowdonia from my home town of Maidstone, Kent, early on Friday morning. After clocking up 250 miles on motorways and Welsh Country Road, I rocked up at the National Slate Museum in Llanberis where the race started the next morning and picked up my race number.
I booked two nights at the Traxx Hotel in Bognor, which was a 25 minute car drive from the National Slate Museum. One night for the day before, and one night to rest and recover after the race finished.
My stay at this hotel was interesting, to say the least. Whilst I’m really not bothered about having a luxurious hotel room, and I’m just happy with a place to stay, the shower was freezing (and I mean freezing) cold. No one at reception knew what to do to resolve my issue, and the main hotel staff had left for the evening. Not majorly happy, I bit the bullet and had an ice-cold shower and was promised it would be fixed the next day. A funny memory in hindsight, but at the time it was pretty grim!
I laid out my kit meticulously, so all I would need to do in the morning is apply some anti-chafing balm and sunscreen before chucking it all on.
I woke up, ate a decent breakfast heavy in carbs, put my kit on, and jumped in my car to park in Llanberis before the 8am start.
Llanberis to Gwastadannas, 0 – 15.3km
I, along with 1126 participants, lined up in the freshly risen sunshine and morning freshness. Before we knew it, the countdown began and we were off. Heading into the Welsh mountains for a 54.9km ultramarathon adventure.
The first leg was spent heavily bunched up with the starting field. We paced our way through the Llanberis village roads, past the train station, down some quiet residential lanes, before starting the ascent up the Llanberis path.
This was the first time I’d ever used poles in a race. I was very surprised to see that 90% of runners whipped their poles out incredibly early on the first major tarmac ascent and remember feeling claustrophobic. I caught the poles of the runners in front and behind me on numerous occasions, and wondered if I should get mine out too. I resisted for the first few kilometres, and I think I made the right call.
I saved my poles for a few kilometres up the steady ascent, not wanting to add to the sea of poles around me too early. When I did, my rhythm was a bit awkward and unrehearsed at first but I soon got into a steady motion and I felt like they were really helping me on the ascent.
I’d done that particular route up to Snowdon on three occasions in the past. Once with my brother, once with my dad, and once during my attempt at the National Three Peaks challenge. It was good kicking the race off with a degree of familiarity.
As I neared the top of mount Snowdon, it was quickly becoming apparent that it was going to be an absolute scorcher of a day. The sun was out in full force, already, and there were no clouds in sight.
I reached the top, and I headed to the other side of the mountain. The view of the famous Glaslyn lake was stunning, and whilst the ground underfoot was incredibly rocky, technical and mentally demanding, I was really enjoying being in the mountains with like minded runners.
Suddenly, our descent was stopped in its tracks. After a minute, the blades of a whirring helicopter could be heard in the distance and rapidly came into view before slowly settling down on the side of the path about 150 metres ahead of me.
I don’t know the exact story of what happened, whether it was a hiker or runner who required assistance and rescue. Whatever the situation, it was a sobering reminder that trail running, hiking, and adventuring is inherently accompanied with risk and I felt lucky to be okay and safe. I hope the person or people who required assistance were okay and got the help they need.
As soon as the helicopter set off, we were ushered on by mountain side rescue and continued down the path. This section was mainly a steep descent through rocky paths, weaving around mountain bushes and vegetation, before we got onto tarmac and rolled into aid station number one.
I made it in a time of 2 hours and 30 minutes.
At the aid station, I had some watermelon and other fruits, filled my bottles, and took my time to reset. The sun was really hot and intense, and I wanted to make sure that I didn’t overheat and jeopardise the latter portion of the race. Looking back, I think it was a sensible idea to take things a bit chilled in those crucial early stages.
Gwastadannas to B-yF Uchaf, 15.3km – 31.2km
This section was scenic and pretty muddy to start. I climbed over styes, and cut my way around the Mount Snowdon mountain range through trees, past a beautiful lake, and on some paved roads.
With my feet a bit wet and muddy, I did a video check in and remarked that I’d only climbed 3,400 feet of elevation. That in itself is quite a lot in only 18km, but there was a lot more climbing to be done and I knew the second big ascent of Mount Snowdon was just around the corner.
Ascent two was particularly brutal. The sun was out in full force, and we climbed a very steep route up to the Snowdon summit. I’m not actually sure which route we took, and it’s one that I had never taken before. If you know which route it is (see the video at around 6 minutes 20 seconds in), please do let me know in the comments.
As I neared my second summit, the terrain turned pretty technical and some minor scrambling was needed. Nothing too crazy, but it meant that progress was slowed and with runners in front and behind there was a need to keep a steady and consistent pace going.
Some runners had opted to take a break on this ascent, and were sitting on the side of the path getting a moment’s rest and taking some nutrition on board. I myself realised that my own water supply was running pretty low, and in hindsight I probably should have rationed my water a bit more. Or, I should have taken a third bottle as an insurance policy. For such a technically demanding and elevation filled 50km, with the sun blaring at all times on the exposed mountains, three aid stations felt like quite low a number. However, I recognise the effort that come with setting up aid stations let alone the challenges which come with doing so in such a remote and mountainous environment.
At the top of Snowdon, the crowds of tourists had built up and I had to weave my way past hikers going up and coming down the mountain shouting ‘runner coming from behind’ a good few times.
During this descent, the terrain was particularly rocky and I remember my knee starting to really hurt thanks to my 84 mile DNF of the Thames Path 100 the week before.
Nevertheless, I made it to valley level and headed through a boggy swampy muddy section before arriving at aid station number two.
The B-y-F Uchaf aid station was massive. Based in a large gazebo, I got some needed temporary shade relief from the hot sun and enjoyed more fruits, some sweets, and filled up my bottles. I took a moment to eat a packet of Walkers Crisps (what a delicacy!) on a bench outside and chatted to a few other runners. One had DNF’d the year before and he was determined to finish it this time. I told him that it was his year and he was smashing it, before wishing him good luck and heading off for part three.
B-y-F Uchaf to Betws Garmon, 31.2km to 39.3 km
Leaving aid station number 2, I was at 6 hours and 1 minute and had 6,700 feet in elevation gain clocked up.
I headed up some narrow paths with dense trees on either side, up some grassy hills, and I soon found I’d climbed another large but slightly smaller mountain. With views as far as the eye can see, I took a moment to enjoy the beautiful surroundings in my video check in.
Whilst I was doing something which was very physically demanding and a massive challenge, I was thrilled to be spending my Saturday afternoon in nature and surrounded by like minded people who love ultra running.
I made my way down the mountain, and over some moderately technical terrain underfoot. It wasn’t massively challenging, but with my left knee starting to really flare up it felt a lot harder for me than I know it should have done.
With this being the shortest stint between aid stations, I soon found myself crossing a small wooden bridge and onto a road which looked like it lead into a campsite and entered aid station number 3.
In this aid station, I went to town on the impressive selection of foods and had some cheese sandwiches, a banana, some orange slices, and took a sports bar for the road. I filled up my bottles, thanked the volunteers, and headed back out for the last part of the race.
Beetws Garmon to Llanberis, 39.3km to 54.9km
Leaving aid station 3, I was at 7 hours and 46 minutes having climbed 8,600 feet in elevation gain.
By this time, the temperature was starting to take its toll on me and I was feeling very warm and exposed.
On the ascent up this last massive climb, there were sheep all around and some wild horses. If they could talk, I’m sure they’d be telling us we were a bit crazy for running an ultramarathon on such a hot and exposed day on the mountains.
There were a few streams leading up to the last big climb, and at every opportunity I took a moment to dunk my hat in the cool water and soak my head. Though a temporary relief from the hot sun, and probably only psychologically helpful, each dunk and cold water splash felt glorious.
On the ascent, I got my poles out once more and got into a steady rhythm. During the climb, I noticed to my surprise that I really seemed to get into a flow on the pole assisted ascents and found a consistent groove pretty easily. Whilst my descents were pretty tough, thanks to my dodgy knee, I was glad to at least be ascending pretty strong and feeling good.
On this ascent, there were more runners taking a breather from the climb on the side of the trail. I heard that, in previous editions of the race, the weather was totally different having been cold, cloudy, and rainy on some occasions. This year, things couldn’t have been any different and it felt like being in a tropical climate abroad. Not in the Welsh countryside.
On the other side of the climb, I held my poles in my hands and ran all the way down and onto a gravel path ready to head into Llanberis for the race conclusion. During this long stretch of running, my knee was really starting to sting with each step and my pace dropped significantly with several runners overtaking me. Knowing I’d soon be finishing, and how grateful I was to be able to run this event after having DNF’d the Thames Path 100 just the week before, I was in high spirits.
After passing my way through a collection of cross cutting paths, past some chilled looking Highland Cows, I dropped back onto the main Llanberis path where it all started that morning.
I made my way through Llanberis village, past crowds of excellent supporters cheering me on, and crossed the finish line at the National Slate Museum.
My results and thoughts
I finished 293/875 finishers in a time of 10 hours 23 minutes and 12 seconds.
This was one of the most fun and most challenging ultras I’d ever participated in, and the lovely views every step of the way made this one extra special.
Being the first time I used poles in an ultra, I was a little nervous about carrying the extra gear and not being majorly comfortable with poles at the starting line. That being said, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that climbing big ascents with poles is a strength of mine and I look forward to developing that skill in the future.
Overall, Ultra Trail Snowdonia 50km was an excellent experience and I loved every second of it. It was well organised, the route was exceptional, and it was brilliant meeting so many other runners out there on the race course.
If you get a chance, I’d highly recommend this mountain ultra and I hope to take part one day. If I ever do return, I’ll be signing up for the 100km version for a new challenge and a new adventure.
Thanks very much for reading and the best of luck with your running.
Craig Running Cafe
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